When I read that one of Bourdain’s favourite spots for seafood was La Guerrerense, I knew where I was heading for lunch one sunny afternoon in Mexico City. I always seek out the chef, owner, anyone who can tell me a story behind what I’m eating (even if in a language I don’t understand). Well it was my lucky day. It was the anniversary of their newest location and Mrs. Sabina Bandera, the daughter-in-law of the original owner, was there to celebrate. 

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What today has become an institution for Baja California-style seafood, I learned had humble beginnings as a food cart in Ensenada run by Sabina’s father-in-law. One visit for her honeymoon and Sabina stayed, mastering her ability to season the fish from the sea of Ensenada. 

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It was Sabina who transformed the flavours offered at this innocent roadside cart to demand it open as a restaurant, and now, several across the country. The menu is simple: a selection of ceviches, tostadas, and conchas, plus a couple of taco options. The fish that fills each of these forms are nothing out of the ordinary (think shrimp, octopus, crab salad ). I ordered the tuna tostada off of Sabina’s recommendation and even though we were miles away from the ocean, it didn’t matter, because I would soon realize I wasn’t there for the freshness of the fish, I was there to experience how it tastes when paired with Sabina’s 13 hot sauces.