What ‘Poutine’ is to Montreal, ‘Ajiaco’ is to Bogota; a dish with history and the utmost cultural significance, that remains a go-to comfort for locals looking to warm up on a cool day in this mountain city. A simple yet hearty potato stew filled with shredded chicken, a stick of corn on the cob, and drizzled with cream. Traditionally ajiaco was served only with avocado. Nowadays it is often accompanied by a plain, toasted arepa or bowl of rice.

Trying to find the best version of ajiaco is no easy task when seemingly every menu offers the classic dish. Most head to the iconic Puerta Falsa, made famous by Anthony Bourdain’s visit for his food documentary series Parts Unknown. But an arguably even better interpretation of ajiaco lies across the street, ironically at a vegetarian restaurant, Quinua y Amaranto, where on Saturdays they break all vegetarian rules. Their vegetarian set lunch menu often sells out by early afternoon, but when they bring chicken into the kitchen, selling out is a guarantee. I’m so grateful for the warm women in the kitchen who, upon my second attempt to eat here, gave me the last bowl of ajiaco, despite the line of angry tourists that would follow.